Thursday June 1st, 2006|
Today I set out to finish up the panel cutting, etc. I started out by shamelessly copying Checkoway's idea for the anti-rotation strip behind the switches. Pretty simple stuff. Just lay up a piece of stock on the back side of the panel, mark the holes, remove, drill the holes out to full size. Then I drilled a switch hole in some scrap and then put the swtich in there with the anti-rotation tab pointed toward the scrap. Working the anti-rotation washer around I was able to mark the location of the tab. Then I drilled a hole for the tab and test-fit the swtich and everything was good. I used the scrap as a jig to mark the remainder of the holes. This worked pretty well and I'm pleased with how it came out. BTW: The 2nd switch from the right in this picture is for my e-buss and yes....I know that I have the wrong switch for this. I have the proper one on order.
Oh yeah, after I had all these switches in here I suddenly realized that I hadn't checked to see which was was *ON* with the switches. Slowly I walked over to my toolbox and pulled out my multimeter and tested the continuity of the switches. Yep...got it right. The strangest thing is the alternator/battery switch doesn't behave at all like I expected. That's going to be a little interesting to wire.
Here's a view from the front. Nevermind the elevator trim indicator falling out.
And another view from the bottom. I'm contemplating removing some more metal from this thing to save some weight. Nah....too much effort for marginal weight savings.
Next I continued to prepare the panel. I remove the reinforcement angle (which hasn't really been removed since I drilled it to the panel way back when). Anyway, if you look at the instrument hole at the farthest right (up in the picture) you'll see where I trimmed out the notch for the altimeter. Before I started building I never realized that instrument holes were like this. To get this notch perfect I cut out the hole from the old pre-punched panel and used it as a jig to mark the slot. Then I used unibits in strategic locations to remove the bulk of the material and then a little carbide grinding bit on the Dremel took care of the rest. That little carbide tool is AWESOME -- at high speeds it removes the aluminum so smoothly and it doesn't load up like the sanding drums do. You have to have a smooth hand with it...that's for sure.
Anyway, you'll also notice in the picture that there are #40 holes around the key switch hole. This is for the anti-rotation plate that I also made from the doubler.
Also, it's a little difficult to see here but I countersunk the upper screw hole that's in the middle of the 6-pack instrument cluster. I really didn't want to do this because the panel isn't really that thick, but I really needed to do this because the dynon units will slightly overlap the screw area. Hopefully tomorrow I can rivet the various angles and the key switch doubler and paint this sucker.